Kinda Not a Big Deal: The Trader Joe's Nourish Spa Formula Changes Are Not A Sign of the Apocalypse

April 21, 2014, 10:27 pm

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For about the past week or so, everyone has been making a big hoopla about the formula changes to everyone's beloved super cheap, curly girl-friendly conditioner, Trader Joe's Nourish Spa. Folks were angry. Some ran to their nearest Trader Joe's to clean out the remaining old formula from the shelves, and created a home-stockpile to prepare for the worst. I even saw on another blogger's Instagram a recommendation for starting a petition to switch back to the old formula -- before even giving the new formula a shot.

Sometimes, naturals do too much. (I had to get that out, I've been holding it in for too long)

Before I go on a mini-rant about how folks need to simmer down sometimes, here's the old label:

And the new one:

In case you can't see the ingredients or don't have the time to analyze the distinctions, here are the two lists compared (the changed ingredients are highlighted in red):

Old Nourish Spa Formula: purified water, organic rosemary extract, organic valencia orange citrus, organic mango, organic lemongrass, organic ginko biloba, organic echinacea, organic willowbark, organic sea kelp, organic chamomille flower, organic textured soy protein, organic lavender, organic grapefruit citrus, tocopherol (Vitamin E), acetamide MEA, cetyl alcohol, citric acid, methylparaben, polyparaben, botanical fragrance.

New Nourish Spa Formula (scientific names of extracts removed for ease of reading): purified water, cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, citric acid, tocopherol (Vitamin E), dimethicone, argan oil, organic rosemary extract, organic valencia orange citrus, organic mango, organic lemongrass, organic ginko biloba, organic echinacea, organic willowbark, organic sea kelp, organic chamomille flower, organic textured soy protein, organic lavender, organic grapefruit citrus, tocopherol (Vitamin E), acetamide MEA, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, fragrance.

The natural hair community has been up in arms over these formula changes, and this blogger thinks it's a classic case of much ado about nothing. Let me explain the reasons why *I* believe the formula changes don't matter as much as everyone thinks they do:

1. The Botanical Extracts Are the Same -- Just Moved.
Word for word, all of the botanical extracts are in the same cluster as they appear on the old label. The only major switch is that they appear after the ingredients that compose the conditioner base. I don't personally believe the concentrations are different; I'm moreso of the mindset that Trader Joe's changed where the extracts were listed as a move for compliance with the FDA Cosmetic Labeling Regulations. According to the FDA,

The ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance. However, there are a few exceptions to this requirement.

Nourish Spa Conditioner's botanicals fall under the second exception:

Ingredients present at a concentration not exceeding 1% may be listed in any order after the listing of the ingredients present at more than 1% in descending order of predominance. [§ 701.3(f)(2)]

So basically, the botanicals have always been present at a concentration of less than 1%. The label has just been adjusted to reflect that.

2. Behentrimonium Chloride and Argan Oil are GOOD.
Behentrimonium Chloride is a quaternary ammonium compound (cleaning and conditioning agent) and close cousin of cetrimonium chloride. It penetrates the hair, conditions, and acts as an anti-static and anti-microbial agent. It is derived from the oilseed turnip, and as a plant-based compound it is great for detangling, softening, and more. Argan oil is touted as an omega-rich miracle oil that can help quell frizz, repair damage, nourish the hair, and banish brittleness and dryness. And they added argan oil without adding to the price! See? Nothing wrong here.

3. The Paraben Preservatives are GONE.
Being distracted by the flurry of botanical extracts, most fans of Nourish Spa turned a blind eye to the fact that paraben preservatives were also on the old ingredient list -- myself included. For those not aware, parabens are preservatives used in cosmetics to prevent microbes from forming and helps to stabilize products for a longer shelf life. The problem with parabens? They're easily absorbed into the bloodstream by the skin and aren't metabolized. In fact, parabens are a highly prevalent element of (statistically) 19 out of 20 breast cancer biopsies. There is no proven link that parabens are carcinogenic, but there is concern that they interrupt endochrine/hormone function in women, and lead to reproductive toxicity. The parabens in the old formula have been replaced with a milder, non-paraben preservative (phenoxyethanol), and potassium sorbate, which is a food-grade level preservative. Nothing to be up in arms about over here, folks!

But...There is One Thing.
This wouldn't be an honest assessment without bringing up one potential downer: silicones. I'm not personally cosigning on this one as a red flag, because 'cones don't bother me. Some of my favorite products have silicones in them. But for some ladies who may be on a strict curly girl regimen, this can be a total downer.

Dimethicone is present in the new formula, and it is a popular cosmetic silicone. Silicones work by coating the hair in a thin, semi-permeable or waterproof layer that reduces the porosity of hair, and makes it less likely to absorb humidity (great for straightening and smoothing hair). It reduces moisture loss within the hair, and lubricates the surface of the hair and makes it easier to comb (slip and less tangled). All of these benefits, while being lightweight and not causing buildup! The obvious downside is that silicones like dimethicone are synthetic. However, they are generally recognized as safe for human skin and hair. Unfortunately, dimethicone is not water-soluble. This doesn't mean that you can't cowash with the new formula, just that you'll have to become more diligent about clarifying or using shampoo at least once a month to avoid buildup (which you should be doing anyway). Besides, the new formula of Nourish Spa isn't silicone-based...it just contains a silicone as the 5th ingredient after water. It's present, but not enough to cause super-duper alarm.

Trust me: I tried out the new formula.

As far as everything goes, here's my take on the new Nourish Spa Conditioner formula:

Price: Still $2.99. Take note, companies that add argan or other oils to their products and jack up the price :)

Consistency/Feel: Same.

Color: Same.

Fragrance: Same.

Look at that shine! No filter, no flash!

Performance: This is where the rubber meets the road. Based on my experience (I've had many a bottle of Nourish Spa in my day as a transitioner and being natural), I actually like the new formula better. It has more slip, and helped me work through my tangled 7 day wash and go with ease. The smoothness and feel of my hair was the same afterwards, which means that it still preserves the same functionality that many naturals have come to love over the years. One super, ultra, mega difference I noticed right off the bat? SHINE. Lots, and lots, and lots, of shine. Between the argan oil and dimethicone, some serious shine business is coming out of that bottle.

So to Trader Joe's I say -- Great job! Thank you for making an already awesome product even more awesome without gouging my wallet.

To my fellow transitioners and naturalistas I say -- All change ain't bad. Unless you're a die-hard CGer, the changes won't ruin your regimen.

That's my assessment! Have you tried the new formula? Share your thoughts in the comments!

---

Was The Writing on the Wall? Carol's Daughter Companies File for Bankrupty

April 26, 2014, 11:13 am

≫ Next: My Experience with the Beautiful Textures Texture Manageability System

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Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

This past Thursday, news got around through sources from Wall Street Journal to Clutch Magazine online that companies under the Carol's Daughter name had filed for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Protection.

WHAT?!

You read correctly. Companies under the Carol's Daughter banner are folding. To paint a clearer picture, it should be understood that there are several companies under Carol's Daughter, and the primary focus of the Chapter 11 filing is on those companies under the umbrella of CD (Carol's Daughter) Stores, LLC -- of which parent company Carol's Daughter Holdings, LLC is the 100% owner. Another point of clarity: Carol's Daughter Holdings, LLC is not filing for bankruptcy. Essentially, the Carol's Daughter Stores umbrella and the companies underneath it (each store was a separate company) filed for Chapter 11 in an effort to close their doors permanently.

So what exactly happened?

I reached out to a Carol's Daughter rep, but unfortunately I did not receive a response. But I did find this juicy tidbit in the Wall Street Journal:

According to Chief Financial Officer John Elmer, most of the Carol's Daughter stores across the nation had been unprofitable since 2010 (stick a pin right there, we'll be back to revisit this in a second). Prior to the bankruptcy filing, 5 of the 7 Carol's Daughter stores had been closed and 29 of 42 employees were terminated. Chief Executive Officer (stick another pin right there) Richard Dantas had this to say: "Today's filing in no way reflects the parent company's healthy financial situation, and is a part of its plan to grow the brand through national retail outlets." Dantas also pointed out that Carol's Daughter products are available in a number of major retail locations nationwide, and that the company is refocusing its distribution strategy to focus more on these retailers.

As it currently stands, Carol's Daughter products are available online and on the ground at major retailers including Target, Ulta, Sephora, and even the Home Shopping Network.

Now that we've got the technicalities out of the way, let's have a candid discussion about what's REALLY happening. I remember when we Angelenos got our own Carol's Daughter store in Westfield Culver City (formerly Fox Hills Mall) in the late 2000s. It was an exciting time -- an affirmation of our value (consumer dollars), and a source of inspiration and empowerment (supporting Black-owned business). I remembered many trips to the mall, and seeing ladies very excited to support the store. But as the years went on, the fanfare dwindled and the landscape changed. In fact, when I went to the mall last weekend, the Carol's Daughter store was closed.

In digging around online to put together this article, what shocked me the most is that Lisa Price is not the CEO of the company she founded. Or owner, for that matter. Everyone knows that she teamed up with Steve Stout and was able to solicit millions of  dollars in investments from the likes of Jay-Z, Will, and Jada. As a result, Price surrendered an unspecified ownership stake in the company she created. A little more prodding online produces all sorts of information and records from the likes of Businessweek, that displays Lisa Price as only Founder and President of Carol's Daughter. In fact, Carol's Daughter Holdings, LLC (the parent company) is owned by Pegasus Capital Advisors, L.P. Now, I don't have an MBA or anything but the words "owned by" are pretty crystal clear. When you don't own things, you have no say in what is done with them.

Is this where all that "polyethnic" jargon came from?

The messaging of the entire Carol's Daughter brand changed -- starting with the 2011 campaign to change the color widen the appeal of the product line. Banners and posters featuring Selita Ebanks, Solange Knowles, and Cassie were rolled out. A brand of products formerly marketed to only Black women now adopted a "polyethnic" scope based upon changing census data (that indicated a rise in women that identified as bi or multi-racial), virtually abandoning the clientele that built the foundation that the business stands on. Droves of Black women pumped the brakes on their support of Carol's Daughter, feeling abandoned and maligned by the new campaign for colorless beauty. Formula changes and price hikes aside, many Black women continued to support Carol's Daughter because they believed in the Black-owned brand. But Price's feelings of "...perpetuating the idea that Carol's Daughter is a brand for Black Women with natural hair alone can be limiting", coupled with the new marketing campaign, was the straw that broke the camel's back.

Fast forward to 2014, and the closest thing I can find to a brand ambassador for Carol's Daughter is Naptural85 -- whom many naturals of all walks adore. Long gone are the celebrity spokespeople -- they've been replaced with 3 models that are a slight improvement over the previously mentioned ladies in terms of diversity. Products like Hair Milk, Margeurite's Magic, and Mimosa Hair Honey are sporting banners that say "same size, $5 less". It almost seems like Carol's Daughter is learning their lesson in biting the hands that fed them. But is it too late? I can't help but noticing that Carol's Daughter selections at places I frequent (like Ulta and Target) are never really moving, or out of stock. But, maybe that's just an LA thing.

Carol's Daughter might have been a pioneering brand in natural hair, but the playing field is wide open. They've got tons of competition from brands who have successfully transitioned to major retailers, or who have tons of online business coming in without compromising ingredient quality. And even while they're closing stores to focus on a distribution model that appears more in line with their goal to reach a broader consumer base, smaller brands like Cream and Coco are opening brick and mortar stores to expand and achieve the same end. Camille Rose Naturals, Alikay Naturals and Oyin Handmade made it to Target without alienating their customer bases.

So what's really going on over at Carol's Daughter? Is it really about closing stores to focus on distributing to major retailers, or is this a sign of their struggle to stay relevant without the support of the customers that built the brand? Weigh in, ladies!

My Experience with the Beautiful Textures Texture Manageability System

April 27, 2014, 9:44 am

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Note: I'm still trying to get my video working, the file keeps corrupting for some asinine reason :-/ so in the meantime, here's a writeup of my experience. Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

In recent weeks, social media has been abuzz with word and photos of a revolutionary system that allows natural women to go from textured, to straight, and back to textured hair in the blink of an eye. That system is the Texture Manageability System by Beautiful Textures, subsidiary of Strength of Nature. If you follow popular bloggers like @tarenguy, @msvaughntv, @lexiwiththecurls, and @chimeedwards on Instagram, you saw that this product unveiling came with a Miami getaway, videos, salon events, and a photo shoot.

All of those things are fab, and I'm really happy for the ladies involved (I really am, and I'm claiming my own big opportunities in 2014!), but at the end of the day one question remains --

Is the Texture Manageability System worth it?

Let's explore.

I received a Texture Manageability System (TMS) as a part of my March OnyxBox. I couldn't pass up 3 full size products plus the TMS for only $15. Beyond the product junkie in me that wanted 3 products, I was genuinely curious about TMS and all the social media fanfare surrounding it. I needed to know how it worked, why it worked, and if there would be any adverse consequences (because of course, no brand is going to tell you what's wrong with their product). I was also curious to see if the system would allow me to wear flat ironed hair for more than a week (which is what I typically get when I straighten using my own methods). The system consists of a shampoo, leave-in conditioner, and anti-reversion shampoo and conditioner duo. There is also a pamphlet for instructions and general guidelines based upon texture and desired goal. Warnings of not using too much heat permeate throughout the literature. But, before I get into my own analysis, let's start of with what Beautiful Textures has to say about their product (via beautifultextures.com):

Strength of Nature — the makers of African Pride, Beautiful Textures, Elasta QP, MegaGrowth, TCB, Pro-line and Soft & Beautiful — is revolutionizing the hair industry with a ground-breaking product:

Reversible™ Straightening Texture Manageability™

This revolutionary system has created a totally new category in hair care. Never before has hair been able to have it all - total manageability and versatility. For natural girls, it’s the flexibility to Flip™ back-and-forth from curly to straight and then back again, and if you have relaxed hair the system extends the time you need to touch-up between relaxer new growth applications.

The secret is the Inner-Active™ Leave-In Conditioner, which is infused with essential oils, natural butters and amino acids, and has no harsh chemicals. The Inner Active™ leave-in conditioner penetrates the hair, causing it to elongate and soften while making it easier to detangle. Once the detangling process is complete, the hair is blow-dried and flat ironed, creating beautifully straight, touchable soft hair with unmatched body, movement and shine - all in a fraction of the time of most traditional straightening methods.

Now in four quick steps, curly girls can go from natural curls to straight styles and back again without compromising or permanently altering their curl pattern. The system gives Reversible™ Straightening that lasts up to 6 weeks, plus the benefit to stop damaging your hair from daily heat straightening, or the choice to stop using harsh chemicals to permanently relaxed hair. But remember, the Texture Manageability™ System gives you the choice to go back to natural at any time because the Inner-Active Conditioners do not permanently change your hair texture.

Marketing jargon aside, what does TMS actually do -- and how does it work? I stayed up late one night doing research, and reading information from a number of cosmetic chemistry sources. Here's what I came up with (you can catch this excerpt on my Instagram as well):

The active ingredient in TMS is in the leave-in, which is glyoxyloyl carbocysteine. There is some interesting data from a cosmetic chemistry conference about what it does to curly and textured hair. Long story short, the Texture Manageability System is a low pH, formaldehyde-free, amino acid-rich protein treatment that deposits inside the cortex, closes the cuticle tightly/fills stress cracks, and makes hair super shiny and strong. When combined with heat, the deposits inside the hair cause a reversible, structural elongation of the cortex. Essentially, this thing is a huge deep conditioning/protein treatment activated by heat. 

Satsified with that information, I did what I customarily do when trying any new product -- a patch test. Here were my results using the shampoo and leave-in (via Instagram):

I was able to easily straighten this small segment of hair with slightly lower temperatures (around 370, I normally straighten at 380 degrees Fahrenheit). The hair felt soft and silky, and had great shine. I immediately washed it twice with tgin Moisture Rich Sulfate Free Shampoo, which resulted in a frizz-free, somewhat elongated version of my texture (which is where the "manageability" part comes in). To completely remove the system from my hair, I followed up with Lawrence Ray Concepts Complete Cleanse Shampoo, which contains SLS. My hair returned to normal, but still possessed the shine and softness. At this particular point, I was convinced that nothing terrible would happen to my hair, so I made plans to straighten it that weekend.  

Before I get too far into the results, let me highlight a few things about the Texture Manageability System:

• It isn't permanent. Unless you use entirely too much heat (they warn strongly against that in the literature that comes with the kit) and end up with heat damage, any loosening of your texture will revert with several washes.
• Your texture won't 100% revert immediately. Again, in the literature they tell you that you can use the product to achieve a looser curl pattern if you don't want to wear your hair straight. 
• Reversion requires several washes with a SULFATE-CONTAINING shampoo. I make that distinction because there are some bloggers (no shade) who are showing their reversion results with sulfate-free shampoo. If you use a more gentle cleansing agent, the looser curl results last longer. Using a more clarifying product with sulfates will help remove the Inner-Active Leave-In more quickly.

I straightened my hair with TMS (video coming soon, I documented ev-er-ry-thang) just to see if it would live up to all the hype surrounding it. In the meantime, here are my preliminary thoughts: 

Cleansing Shampoo
It's a shampoo. Not the most moisturizing or gentle, but I can understand the rationale for wanting to make sure hair is completely clean before any heat styling. Made a mental note that *if* I decided to use TMS again, I will be swapping out the shampoo for one that doesn't dry out my hair as much. 

Inner-Active Leave-In
Very liquidy, and comes with warnings of not over-applying. The bottle is slightly more than 1oz, which can lead a heavy-handed naturalista to believe it is not enough. Believe me when I say -- it is MORE than enough. I used 75% of a bottle, and I think that was too much. Goes on easily, and is able to be worked through the hair while WET. But once it dries, forget about it. For whatever reason during blow drying, my hair became tangle city -- even though I had detangled prior to washing, and during deep conditioning, which brings me to my next point... 

There is no deep conditioner. Or heat protectant. 
To me, the absence of these two from any thermal straightening process or system is a glaring weakness. Whether I use TMS or not, I always, always, alllllllllllways make sure I have a deep conditioner on deck -- preferably one with cetrimonium chloride and protein. To make up for that lack, I deep conditioned with Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask after shampooing and before applying the leave-in. And even though the Inner-Active Leave-In may offer some heat protection, I didn't fully trust it. After transitioning for 21 months from heat damage, there was no way I was leaving this one up to chance. I incorporated Tresemme Heat Tamer Spray and Garnier Fructis Marvelous Oil serum during blow drying and flat ironing for added protection. 

The Straightening Process
TMS was supposed to help cut down on the straightening time. And whatever strides I made in flat ironing my hair more quickly were canceled out by the obscenely difficult blow drying session. As I mentioned previously with the leave-in, working it through the hair is easy when it is damp or wet. But after you leave it on the hair for the recommended 20-ish minutes, all of that is out the window. My hair was tangled and felt coated, which made it difficult for me to work through and blow dry. That feeling dissipated somewhat once it was time to flat iron -- which I think can be attributed to the Garnier serum. Here were my results:

For those that are curious, I flat iron on 380 degrees Fahrenheit. That is the temperature that I have deemed safe for my hair without heat damage with proper protection. After flat ironing, my hair was soft and shiny, and had movement -- but it typically does when I straighten it. The major difference though? In the following days, my hair did feel coated, and I definitely experienced some reversion in the form of poofiness (which I expect from natural hair that doesn't have heat damage). At the end of 3 days, I found my straight hair to be more of a hassle than my curls (imagine that), and went on a mission to revert. 

It took me 3 wash days and SLS containing shampoos to get my curl pattern restored back 100%. You can read all about wash day number one here, and wash days two and three here. All and all, I'm glad I tried the Texture Manageability System -- if for no other reason than to quell my curiosity. Will I use it again? Probably not. I'm not interested in "managing" my texture, and even though the smoothness and shine was nice, I can get that from a good deep conditioning. So to answer the question posed in the beginning -- is the Texture Manageability System worth it? For me, not really. But of course, each head of hair is different.

There are some ladies who will sing the praises of TMS, others who disagree with the notion that our hair needs to be "managed", and some who won't care either way. Which category do you fall into, ladies? Would you try TMS?

Note: Straight hair can be a hot-button/polarizing issue for us. Please, let's keep all commentary respectful toward one another.

Making Henna Mixes for Natural Hair

April 28, 2014, 10:48 am

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Making a henna mix can be fun, weird, messy, and confusing all at the same time.

Why?

Because as with everything else concerning natural hair, there is a wealth of information out there, and a lot of it conflicts. So let's go ahead and break this thing down, so you can get the most out of your henna...without making too much of a mess.

What Is Henna?
Henna (if 100% lawsonia inermis) is an all-natural plant native to Africa, Southern Asia, and Australia used to dye hair, skin, nails, and fabrics. It temporarily stains the aforementioned a reddish hue. The leaves of the plant are crushed and the dye is released using any number of liquids -- from hot water, to coffee or tea.

What Does Henna Do?
Henna has some amazing benefits for natural hair. Read more about henna benefits and mixes at NaturallyCurly.com!

6 Deep Conditioners That Do It ALL!

May 6, 2014, 12:04 pm

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Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!
I'm a picky eater. I don't like certain foods because of how they look, others because of how they smell. Other still (and even perhaps more ridiculously) because of the texture. I really thought food would be the thing I'd be most meticulous about -- until I met my criteria for a good deep conditioner.

When it comes to deep conditioners, I want them to do it ALL. Like, as in hydrate, strengthen, improve elasticity, banish frizz, eliminate my student loan debt, and make my hair feel silky and smooth -- all while having enough slip to detangle with the best of them. In other words, it better WERK!

So, exactly what deep conditioners do all of the above? Here are my 6 picks for the best deep conditioners for natural hair(there may be others, but at these are the top of the top of my list):

1. EdenBodyworks Jojoba Monoi Deep Conditioner

Cost: $9.99/16oz
Available At: Sally Beauty Supply, Wal-Mart
The 411: This super thick and creamy conditioner is loaded with good-for-hair goodies like monoi (coconut oil + tiare/gardenia flower), jojoba, carrot oil, and tea tree. It softens, detangles, and adds shine and smoothness without weighing the hair down. Also curly girl-friendly, artificial color, mineral oil, petroleum, paraben, and fragrance-free.

2. Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask

Cost: $14.99/16.9oz
Available At: Ulta, Ulta.com
The 411: Enriched with keravis protein, sea buckthorn oil, and argan oil, this deep conditioner will hydrate, strengthen, nourish, and protect even the driest strands. It acts in as quickly as 5 minutes, but can be left on the hair for much longer. After one use, expect soft, shiny, smooth, buttery-feeling strands. For the full review, click here. Artificial color, mineral oil, petroleum, and paraben-free.

3. Shea Moisture African Black Soap Purification Masque

Cost: $11.99/12oz
Available At: Target, CVS, Walgreens, Online
The 411: A unique blend of butters, oils, clay, african black soap, plantain, and willowbark extract make this deep conditioner the best friend of anyone battling against dandruff, eczema, or psoriasis. It helps detoxify the strands while leaving hair soft, conditioned, and smooth. Curly girl-friendly, artificial color, mineral oil, petroleum, and fragrance-free.

4. tgin Triple Moisture Replenishing Conditioner

Cost: $14.99/12oz
Available At: Select Walgreens, www.tginatural.com
The 411: Although it is not labeled a deep conditioner, it most certainly acts like one. Thanks to sweet almond oil, shea butter, jojoba, and aloe vera, this conditioner hydrates, softens, detangles, and imparts shine. When used alongside the Moisture Rich Sulfate Free Shampoo, this duo becomes a one-two knockout! Artificial color, mineral oil, petroleum, and paraben-free. Full review here.

5. U R Curly Quinoa Conditioner

Cost: $8.99/10oz
Available At: Select Wal-Mart stores
The 411: If you love a good scalp tingle, this conditioner is a winner. Although not listed as a deep conditioner, it is another one that is versatile enough to be a DC or daily use. Castor oil, quinoa protein, and abyssinian oil soften, nourish, and strengthen the hair while menthol provides a cool tingling and spa-like refreshing experience. Curly girl-friendly, artificial color, mineral oil, petroleum, and paraben-free.

6. Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioner

Cost: $16.99/8oz
Available At: www.hydrathermanaturals.com and select nationwide retailers.
The 411: A unique complex of aminos and proteins make this conditioner great for rescuing hair in need of a strengthening treatment. Even though it is loaded with protein, it makes the hair incredibly soft, shiny, and smooth. Artificial color, mineral oil, petroleum and paraben-free. Read the review.

I Diffused My Hair and I Liked It: Ion Universal Folding Diffuser Review

May 8, 2014, 6:00 am

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I know you're probably thinking, what's the big deal? People diffuse their hair all the time.

I don't.

For as long as I've been washing and going (since my transitioner days), I've always air dried my hair. Always. Which explains why my day 1 hair was always the same -- pulled back to combat my epic frontal shrinkage as my hair dried. But to be honest, I've grown tired of walking around with my "fresh press don't touch my hair" mentality while my natural curls dried in place. Sure, air drying is the healthiest way to let hair dry. But I've reached a point where for me, it might not be worth the hassle. Here's my life on Day 1 while my natural hair air dries:

• Avoiding touching it before it dries to avoid epic frizz (and still finding frizzy ends because of course, my hair brushes up against my shirts when I move)
• Can't lay my head on Samuel's shoulder without leaving a soggy product patch on his shirt (and hearing the complaints that follow...especially if said shirt is black or new)
• Walking around since 7am with wet hair, only to come home at 10pm and discover the roots are still soaking wet
• Automatic frizz in the front of my hair from pinning or clipping it back

Yeah, I'm over it. So before I engaged in the epic wash day battle (I'll get there soon), I was determined to find out of diffusing was my next step. The first thing I did was take my blow dryer with no nozzle, and do a patch test of a *section* of freshly washed hair. It went well, but required a tad bit too much work to hold my hair as it dried. I liked the results, but thought that a diffuser would do my hair more justice. That was all the confirmation I needed. So a few days later, I went to Sally's with my tail between my legs and repurchased an item I had previously purchased and returned: the Ion Universal Folding Diffuser.

I purchased the diffuser months ago, and used it for all of two minutes before returning it. At the time, for some reason I believed that diffusers were supposed to work instantly. so after randomly diffusing sections of soaking wet hair and seeing no tangible difference, I sent the diffuser shipping back to Sally's. If I knew then what I know now...I might have kept it. What really got me was that I initially purchased it on sale for $9.99, but this time around I had to pay $12.89. Not a huge deal, but cheaper is always better. But enough with the backstory, let me get on with the actual review.

Availability: I've honestly only seen this thing on the ground at Sally Beauty, but you can likely find it on Amazon.com as well.

Affordability: I paid $12.89 with my Sally Beauty Club (green card) discount, and it regularly retails for $14.99. Most diffusers range from $9.99 to $29.99. This is right in the middle, and I definitely don't feel like I overpaid (even though I didn't get the sale price I had before).

Product Claim/Description: It doesn't make any lofty claims on the packaging other than boasting ultimate space saving design for storage and travel (thanks to the patented folding technology...lol), being heat resistant with cool-touch silicon surface, and fitting most dryers and brands. I guess when it comes to this particular product, the unique design and materials speak for themselves.

Performance Delivery: First of all, this thing is CUTE! I'm not one to ooh and aah over packaging, but I love bright colors. This diffuser comes in both hot pink and black, and the hot pink is EVERYTHING! The accordion-style folding is a plus and a minus, honestly. On the plus side, it makes it easy to store -- diffuser attachments can be clunky and difficult to store. I'm definitely taking this to Vegas with me next week. The downside is that well, it folds. If you apply a moderate amount of pressure to your scalp with the diffuser, it will fold in. Maybe not completely, but it will fold nonetheless. My workaround for this is to of course, not press it into my head. My alternative solution is to hold the diffuser at the point it connects with the blow dryer, to better manage it and prevent folding. Because the diffuser itself is cool-touch silicon, it doesn't get hot like traditional plastic attachments -- a big plus.

 It took me about 35 minutes to diffuse my hair to about 80% dry. I diffused on medium heat, high speed working around my head and from root to tip. The end result? I was in shock and awe. Whenever I watch videos of ladies diffusing, they always end up with shrunken hair that they turn around and stretch back out with a concentrator nozzle. To be honest I never understood the logic in doing that -- but to each her own. I figured If I diffused my hair the way I wanted it to dry, I could avoid massive shrinkage and feeling the urge to stretch my roots. So I diffused in a downward motion from root too ends, and avoided at all costs doing that thing where folks use the diffuser to scrunch the ends of the hair (this draws the hair up). I did flip my hair over for a while to get the back of my head, but it didn't cause any drama when I flipped it back normal.

Drawbacks: The folding thing is annoying, but not a deal breaker. It also slipped off like twice, but I think that's a function of my blow dryer nozzle being cracked (and on the verge of losing a huge chunk of itself) more than anything.

Bonuses: My. Hair. Looked. Awesome. Even though I used products that I always use, my hair had more shine and less frizz. Remember what I said about air drying, how I would always end up with fuzzy, ratty looking ends because they'd brush against my shirts while wet? Problem solved. I'm looking at the ends of my hair as I write this, like who are you? These ends most certainly don't belong to me! My hair was also not dry or crispy feeling at all. Blow dryers can be dangerous, because they suck the moisture from your hair. But with my many layers of moisture and this diffuser, my hair feels...to be honest, more moisturized than it does when it air dries. Last bonus -- I did NOT pull my hair back at all today! The diffuser helped lock my styling products in place, and although I did experience shrinkage, it was considerably less present in that front/center area that gets on my nerves sometimes. So much so that I rocked my hair as-is, with no fussing and pinning back. Epic win. Epic.

#nofilter check the shine!

#nofilter check the definition! My hair doesn't feel dry AT ALL!

Bottom Line: I'm in love. I'm a believer in diffusing. And I'm so glad I chose the Ion Universal Folding Diffuser. If you're looking for a travel-friendly, frizz-busting, shine enhancing diffuser, this is the way to go. Although most ladies will opt for the air dry this summer, I'll have no parts of it. Diffuse me, baby!

Overall Product Rating: 4 stars. If there was some sort of latch to lock the nozzle in place once it was unfolded and ready for use (to avoid folding under pressure), I would give it 5 stars hand down. But overall, definitely still worth it 100%.

For those that are curious, here are the wash and go stats:
Detangled with Aussie Moist in-shower (my hair was soooooooooooooo disgustingly matted for some reason, I swear I went to bed with tangled curls and woke up with a bird's nest on my scalp). Cleansed with tgin Moisture Rich Sulfate-Free Shampoo and deep conditioned with Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask. Added a few pumps of Aussie Moist into my hair after rinsing out my hair as a light leave-in. Applied Ouidad Whipped Curls (review coming soon) as my second leave-in (for some reason my hair really takes a liking to the double leave-in thing), and Camille Rose Naturals Curl Love Moisture Milk for moisture and nourishment. Styled with TIGI Catwalk Curls Rock Amplifier for definition, and diffused for 35 minutes on medium heat high speed.

Are you #TeamDiffuser, or do you rock with the air drying? If ya'll are interested in a video tutorial on diffusing without massive shrinkage, let me know!

Are Sulfates Harmful? 4 Facts about Sulfates for Natural Hair

May 9, 2014, 10:55 am

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One of the cornerstones of the Curly Girl Method for natural hair is avoiding shampoos and cleansers that contain sulfates. As a result of the rise in popularity of embracing naturally curly hair, many product manufacturers have responded with shampoos, cowashes, and other cleansers that are labeled as "sulfate free" to meet textured hair demands.

But in truth, many products labeled "sulfate free" contain sulfates still -- just not SLS or ALS, which are the two harshest. There are more gentle sulfates that have been developed, and some SLS containing shampoos even have other ingredients that soften the blow of the sulfates. But are sulfates really that bad for natural hair? Or is there a possibility that the concern around them is a little overblown? Let's explore 4 popular claims and whether they hold any weight:

Head on over to NaturallyCurly.com to get more information on sulfates and cancer, dryness, and more!

Easy Satin Strip Braidout for Transitioning and Natural Hair [2014 Updated Version]

May 9, 2014, 11:14 am

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Why not try it this weekend?
 
The satin strip braidout has been my rock over the past few years. As an early transitioner, I used the technique to create texture where there was none (severe heat damage will do that to ya). In the later part of my transition, it was my go-to texture blending style. It is the perfect style for a weekend or special night, and requires minimal skill. There are two methods to the satin strip braidout, and both yield similar results. Which one you go with is simply a matter of the current state of your hair. Let's jump right in:

Method 1: Recommended for Early Transitioners or Naturals Looking for 100% Texture Blending

This method involves braiding the satin strip into your hair from the root. For new transitioners, this look creates texture and uniformity from the root to the end -- with the added benefit of not having super tapered, crinkly-looking thin ends that most regular braidouts result in. For naturals, this method also creates that same texture and uniformity all the way down. It is perfect for any texture of hair, seriously! Satin strip braidouts on looser hair textures will result in increased definition, and tighter, coily or kinky textures will see more elongated hair.

Here's the tutorial for Method 1:

Method 2 (New!): Recommended for Long-Term Transitioners and Naturals

This method carried me and saved tons of time at the later stages of my transition. Once you have a significant amount of newly natural hair (transitioning for 9 months or more), you can begin a regular braid and then integrate the satin strip at the line of demarcation. This method is perfect for creating the illusion of 100% natural hair. For naturals just looking for an extra oomph at the ends of hair, this method is perfect. If your ends don't stay braided, twisted, coiled, or you find yourself looking for perm rods to hold your ends often, this method is for you.

Here's the Method 2 tutorial, updated for 2014:

In the Method 2 video, the following products were used:

• Satin Strips (18 - 20 cut from a satin scarf, about 1.5 inches thick each)
• ACV Spritz (for shine, body, and to help close cuticles)
• Lawrence Ray Concepts Mega Bounce & Body Leave-In Conditioner (water-based moisture)
• Rapunzel The Future of Hair, Hair Lotion (more moisture)
• Jessicurl Spiralicious Gel (hold)
• Rapunzel The Future of Hair, Hair Silk (seal ends and fluff/separate)

You can definitely feel free to use any combination of moisturizers and definers that you choose. Some of my favorite stylers that I've used previously are EcoStyler Gel (green) and Obia Curl Enhancing Custard. Or, for a much softer (and not nearly as long lasting) result you can use moisturizer only and a little bit of butter of choice. 

And finally, a few tips before starting your own satin strip braidout:

• I highly recommend starting on freshly washed and conditioned hair. The style can be achieved on dirty hair, but will yield better and longer-lasting results if the hair is clean.
• DO NOT SEPARATE THE HAIR! The magic in the satin strip braidout happens when the hair is kept together. For Method 1, the satin strip forms 2 sections of hair for the braid, and the hair itself is the 3rd section. In Method 2 the same concept applies, but only after braiding your hair to the point where you want to include the satin strip.
• Make sure your hair is 100% dry before taking down, or else the braidout will swell and lose definition -- resulting in a shortlived style (unless that's the look you're going for).

Good luck satin stripping!

(wait, that didn't sound right...)

Catch this article also on NaturallyCurly.com!

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The Difference Between Oils and Serums for Natural Hair

May 10, 2014, 7:00 am

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As a product junkie and natural hair blogger, I read tons of ingredient labels. I'm also keen on marketing tactics that cosmetic companies use to hook ladies looking for the perfect tresses. From label fonts and coloring and pixie dust extracts (you know, the ones featured prominently on the front label, but that are actually listed as 28th of 32 ingredients) to peddling promises that can't be delivered, tons of money is spent to connect their products with your wallet. Don't get me wrong, I'm not against marketing products at all. I'm just not a huge fan of watching people be misled, especially when it comes to oils and serums for the hair.

In many drugstores, beauty supply and salon stores, there are serums everywhere that are labeled as oils, and many ladies using them as though they are pure oils. Often times, they're infinitely more expensive than the raw ingredients they tout on the label. To help you safeguard your wallet and get the most out of what you put in your hair, let's dive head first into a quick savvy shopper lesson on oils versus serums on NaturallyCurly.com.

4 Easy Fixes for Wash and Go Problems

May 10, 2014, 8:00 am

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Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

At this point in my natural hair journey, I'm certain of three things:

1. I suck at doing twist-outs.
2. I can henna my hair in my sleep.
3. I have pretty much mastered the wash and go.

Even though I've practically got my wash and go down to a science (a super science, thanks to my new diffuser), sometimes soft, bouncy curls and coils will elude me. Typically, I can pinpoint the culprit -- a wack conditioner that didn't prime my hair for styling, a wack product that zapped the life from my hair, or me being wack in how I applied it. Sometimes, it's a combination of 2 or all 3. Because the wash and go game is all about trial and error, I present to you 4 common wash and go woes that I've experienced, and how I've fixed them to avoid the excessive manipulation that comes with washing and starting again from scratch (although sometimes that is necessary...if a product is THAT bad).

Wash and Go Woe #1: Flaky Products
It has happened to me on several occasions: I find a curl definer I'm really excited about, and even my "test patch" goes well. But somewhere between wishful thinking and overzealous application of product, my hair looks great while wet but once dry -- it looks dull, whitish, and my shoulders look like polar ice caps.
The Fix: All hope isn't lost. As a temporary fix, section your hair and grab your favorite oil. Work enough oil (usually a nickle sized amount will do depending on the length and thickness of your hair) through each section, and it should banish enough of the flakes to get you through the next few days until it is time to wash. Whatever you do, don't add more product, or any type of conditioner, moisturizer, lotion, hair milk -- none of that. It will only exacerbate the problem. Oh, and avoid dark colored shirts until you wash again :)

Wash and Go Woe #2: Dry as the Desert
Your product says it won't dry your hair out, and you double-check the label for drying alcohols and other no-no ingredients. It looks good, is nice and slippy, and feels like silk when it goes on your hair. But two hours later, your hair could justifiably be mistaken for a tumbleweed.
The Fix:  Did you add a layer of moisture under your curl definer? If not, now's the time. If you did, grab a spray bottle of water, and whatever leave-in and moisturizer you used underneath the product that dried your hair out. In sections, gently spritz (to make the hair more workable) with water, apply a small amount of leave-in, and moisturizer on top. Before going all willy-nilly with product, do a small test patch to make sure you won't get white balls and flakes that send you back up to problem #1. After applying all 3 layers of moisture, lightly seal with your oil of choice. That should hold you a few days.

Wash and Go Woe #3: The Fuzzies
Maybe you forgot to pineapple before bedtime, or you got the itchies and massaged your scalp to hard. Or if you're like me, you started playing in your hair before it was fully dry. Whatever the cause, you've now got the fuzzies, and it's looking like you should abandon all wash and go hope and opt for a bun.
The Fix: Don't bring out the bun yet! There's a neat little fix that will completely flip your wash and go. For hair that is generally fuzzy, take the front/center section of your hair and do it over. Seriously. Wash it, condition it, and apply product to it. Use a blow dryer or diffuser to expedient the drying process and lay it over the rest of the frizz. As an added bonus, add a little slickness around the edges with an edge control product (like Passion Fruit Curl Control Paste) or a butter blend. It's the same concept as redoing the top few rows of braids or twists -- camouflaging the mess with a perfectly manicured perimeter.

Wash and Go Woe #4: Soul Glo Greasy
At some point, I really do need to accept that styling products with humectants high up on the list are a no-go for me. Yes, the moisture is amazing. But in then end, my hair is sticky and perpetually shrunken for days. The same goes for stir-crazy application of heavy oils and butters. Weighed down, stringy hair and grease spots on every thing I touch is what happens whenever my wash and go is too sticky or oily.
The Fix: Alcohol -- in the form of a holding or styling spray. Before you x out of this article or leave me a crazy comment, hear me out. Greasy or sticky shrunken hair has too much moisture, or a product that draws in or retains too much moisture. Your hair may be nice and shiny, but do you really want to have to wash your hands every 20 minutes because you accidentally touched your hair? Sprays that contain alcohol will help suck up the excess moisture and oil -- which is why natural and transitioning ladies are told to avoid them. Under normal circumstances, alcohol-laden sprays will dry out the hair and cause breakage. But to temporarily fix your sticky situation, they're perfect. My go-to spray that sucks up just enough moisture without leaving my hair feeling dry, brittle, or hard is the Ouidad Flexible Hold Spray -- although I'm almost certain this is not the intended purpose for this product.

What other wash and go woes have you encountered? Let's help each other out!

11 More Alternatives to Eco Styler Gel

May 15, 2014, 8:13 am

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Wash and go season is upon us. Get ready with these products!

Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

Around this time last year, I did an article on 6 Alternatives to EcoStyler Gel for Slicking and Defining Natural Hair. One thing that makes natural hair so much fun (for me as a product junkie at least), is that things can change -- new products can be discovered, old products can be re-evaluated, and DIY mixes can be redone. In the year since the first edition of this article ran, I have had the absolute pleasure of testing out, reviewing, and experimenting with dozens of gels, curl creams, and definers.If you're looking to replace EcoStyler in your regimen, check out these 11 picks!



Obia Curl Enhancing Custard
Price: $15/12oz
Purchase: www.obianaturalhair.com
The first time I used Obia Curl Enhancing Custard, I fell in love. Thick and jelly-like, it glides on easily and encourages the clumping of coils, kinks and curls. Obia Curl Enhancing Custard is mineral oil, petroleum, silicone, paraben, and alcohol-free, and based in olive, grapeseed, and argan oil. Although it is similar in consistency to EcoStyler, the Curl Enhancing Custard leaves hair shiny, defined, and soft -- no crunch or dryness here! It works wonders on slicking edges too!


Wonder Curl Get Set Hair Jelly
Price:
Purchase: www.wondercurl.com
Whenever I think of Wonder Curl Get Set Hair Jelly, hold for days comes to mind. This aloe based defining jelly will hold your hair in place, whether it be for a wash and go, twist-out, or slicking back a bun. Get Set Hair Jelly is potent, so a little goes a long way! With this stuff, you're guaranteed to reach *at least* day 4 hair! Get Set Hair Jelly is mineral oil, petroleum, silicone and paraben free.


Camille Rose Naturals Curl Maker
Price: $22/12oz
Purchase: Target, www.camillerosenaturals.com
For ladies with finer hair, Camille Rose Naturals Curl Maker will provide hold and definition without making your tresses do a disappearing act. Based in glycerin and enriched with coconut oil and other extracts, Curl Maker provides a medium hold without drying the hair. It isn't super thick, so it spreads easily through the hair to provide shine and definition. Silicone, mineral oil, petroleum, paraben, and drying alcohol free.


TIGI Catwalk Curls Rock Amplifier
Price: $18/5.07oz
Purchase: Target, Ulta
Curls Rock Amplifier is expensive. It has some pretty wack ingredients. I can't quite see how the ingredients justify the price point. But I'll say it until I'm blue in the face -- it works. Well. So much so that it's my #1 go-to wash and go product. I can't afford to use it for every single wash and go, but when I do use it, my curls last for more than 5 days every time. So I guess in that way, it might justify itself price-wise. If you're interested in ditching the gels and trying a cream with a strong hold, Curls Rock Amplifier is the one you want to check for. It adds shine, definition, and hold while gliding through and coating the hair easily. Free of drying alcohols, mineral oil, and petroleum.


tgin Twist and Define Cream
Price: $15/12oz
Purchase: www.tginatural.com
Twist and Define Cream by tgin is a close second to the Curls Rock Amplifier. It provides shine, hold, definition, and smoothness. Based in coconut oil, this cream-based styler goes on smooth, has nice slip, and is versatile enough for twistouts, braidouts, and wash and go's. Free of silicones, mineral oil, petroleum, parabens, and drying alcohols.


As I Am Smoothing Gel
Price: $8/8oz
Purchase: Sally Beauty, Target
Another one of those thick in consistency gels, As I Am Smoothing Gel works great for slicking back styles. In addition to sleekness, it will provide a nice amount of hold and definition on wash and go styles. The aloe-based gel helps coils, kinks, and curls clump, and promotes shine while being free of drying alcohol, silicones, parabens, petroleum, and mineral oil.


Ouidad Climate Control Heat & Humidity Gel
Price: $23/8.5oz
Purchase: Ulta, www.ouidad.com
Although a little pricey, Ouidad's most popular gel is just that for a reason. For ladies that will be battling humidity this spring and summer, a gel that keeps the moisture at bay without drying the hair out is a necessity. It has a serum-esque consistency, and goes on the hair really easily with tons of slip. It helps prevent frizz, add shine, and enhance definition. Free of mineral oil, petroleum, and drying alcohols.

 
Soultanicals Afro Gel-lato
Price: $13/8oz
Purchase: www.soultanicals.com
If you love Curl Blaze Hair Glaze by Soultanicals, get ready to kick that love up a notch. For ladies who aren't particularly a fan of glycerin in styling products, this one is for you. The brand new Afro Gelato provides a touchable hold, shine, and smoothness while encouraging curl, kink, and coil clumping. Based in aloe and tons of other botanicals, Afro Gelato is formulated specifically for wash and go hair. Free of silicones, petroleum, parabens, drying alcohols, and mineral oil.


Kurlee Belle Jelle Coconut Styling Gel
Price: $14/8oz
Purchase: www.kurleebelle.com
This coconut oil based gel provides light, touchable hold and amazing shine and definition. It has a thick EcoStyler-like consistency, but with none of the crunch or dryness. It is perfect for clumping curls, kinks, and coils, and achieving bigger day-1 hair. It also works great to create sleek updos and tame edges. Free of silicones, parabens, mineral oil, petroleum, and drying alcohols.



Wet Line Xtreme Gel
Price: $3/17.64oz
Purchase: Sally Beauty, Wal-Mart
If some of the previously mentioned prices are a little too high, this might be right up your alley. Wet Line Xtreme Gel clearly gives you the most bang for your buck. You won't get any fancy botanical extracts or promises of being all-natural, but you will get hold, sleekness, and definition. Free of silicones, parabens, petroleum, mineral oil, and drying alcohols.


Elasta QP Feels Like Silk Liquid Gel
Price: $5/12oz
Purchase: Sally Beauty
Another pretty good for the money option is the Elasta QP Feels Like Silk Liquid Gel. When used in moderation (i.e. don't be heavy-handed), the smoothness, shine, and definition is right on target for ladies who hate the crunch feeling of some gels. Be warned though -- this one contains a lot of glycerin. So if your hair can't handle that, I suggest staying away. But for normal/low humidity areas, this is a perfect, inexpensive (albeit awkwardly blue colored) option for any number of styles that require hold or definiton. Fun fact: this was my definer of choice back in the day (before I really screwed up my hair, and before all these natural hair products were available). Free of drying alcohols, mineral oil, silicones, and petroleum.

What is Glyceryl Stearate Doing in My Hair Products?

May 20, 2014, 7:48 am

≫ Next: Review: Infusium 23 Pro-Vitamin B5 Formula // Repair & Renew Leave-In Treatment

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 Sometimes, the ingredients listed on products sound creepier or more confusing than they actually are. Thanks to an overabundance of information on sulfates, silicones, parabens, petroleum, and other potentially naughty ingredients, products that don't have plainly understood ingredients like coconut oil and botanical extracts are often frowned upon by curly girls.

But fear not, if your product contains glyceryl stearate. Here's why:

Visit NaturallyCurly.com for the 411 on glyceryl stearate -- including whether it is harmful or will do your hair any good!

Review: Infusium 23 Pro-Vitamin B5 Formula // Repair & Renew Leave-In Treatment

May 20, 2014, 11:39 am

≫ Next: Restoring Hydration to DRY, FRIZZY & TANGLED Natural and Transitioning Hair

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Reunited, and it feels so good.

Back in my earrrrrrrrrrrrrly transitioning days, I picked up the Infusium 23 Repair & Renew Leave-In Treatment thinking somehow it would gradually heal or erase the horrendous heat damage to my hair. That's probably because the product made claims about restructuring and protecting stressed and damaged hair. While it didn't do a darn thing for my heat damage (because in all honesty, nothing will), I discovered that it did have one epic use beyond leave-in conditioning: detangling. Back in the day, I was pairing it with Tresemme Split Remedy (which I have since stopped using), but in 2014 I'm pairing it with another awesome product, that I'll discuss soon. For my throwback transitioner experience with Infusium 23 Repair & Renew, click here. But for now, let's get on with the 2014 review.

Note: They're the same!

Infusium 23 Repair & Renew Leave-In Treatment and Infusium 23 Pro-Vitamin B5 Formula Leave-In Treatment are the EXACT SAME PRODUCT. Same formula, consistency, color, smell, properties, and everything. The only thing different is two of the preservatives at the end (Repair & Renew contains DMDM Hydantoin and Disodium EDTA while the Pro-Vitamin B5 Formula contains Methylisothiazolinone and Methylchloroisothiazolinone) -- and these preservatives DO NOT impact how the product performs. The bottles look different (as pictured above), but everything else is the same. If you purchase at Target, Walgreens, WalMart, CVS or any drugstore, you will be getting the Repair & Renew bottle on the left. If your purchase at Sally's you might luck up on the same bottle on the left -- but if you can't find it, check for the bottle at the top of this article.

Ingredient List:
Aqua/Water, Amodimethicone, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Panthenol, Cetrimonium Chloride, PEG/PPG 18/18 Dimethicone, Polyquaternium 11, Citric Acid, Betaine, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Trideceth 12, PPG- 2 Methyl Ether, Serine, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine, Threonine, Lysine, Alanine, Proline, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, PEG 8/SMDI Copolymer, Behenic Acid, Palmitoyl Myristyl Serinate, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Arachidic Acid, PEG-8, Polysorbate 80, Aminomethyl Propanol, Fragrance/Fragancia/Parfum, Sodium PCA, Methylparaben, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone 

Ingredient Analysis:

• Amodimethicone: Silicone-based hair conditioning polymer that becomes water soluble (yes, a water soluble cone!) when accompanied by cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12. [source]
• PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil: Polyethylene glycol derivatives of castor oil used to help form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of ingredients, also acts as a solvent to help ingredients mix that normally would not.
• Panthenol: Vitamin B5, known for quick absorption into hair and providing moisture control.
• Cetrimonium Chloride: Compound close in composition to Behentrimonium Chloride (see below). In addition to having the same penetrating, conditioning, and anti-static properties, centrimonium chloride has been scientifically proven to strengthen the hair when activated by heat.
• PEG/PPG 18/18 Dimethicone: Silicone based polyethylene glycol polymer that acts as a surfactant and emulsifier.

Availability:Widely available. Sally's, Target, Wal-Mart, Walgreens, CVS, and more. You won't have trouble finding a store that carries the product, but you may have trouble finding it on the shelves. It tends to fly -- so if you catch it on the shelf, stock up.

Affordability:33.8oz of liquid gold for $8 or less. I personally purchased mine from Sally's for $7.19 with my Beauty Club Card. Regular price is $7.99. I recommend purchasing from Sally's or Target because the Walgreens and CVS stores tend to overcharge and carry the product in smaller bottles.

Product Claim/Description: Infuses hair with a Pro-Vitamin B5 formula to deeply penetrate and repair the cuticle layers from damage. Detangles and strengthens, while helping protect against breakage. Lightweight formula won't weigh hair down - can be used daily. Can also be used immediately following chemical processing to help seal the cuticle, leaving hair healthy-looking with superb manageability and shine.

Performance/Delivery: Yes, yes, yes -- on every count, yes!!! I should have NEVERRRRRR stopped using this product! Not only does it enhance shine and increase manageability of hair, it makes the hair smooth and does a phenomenal job of hydrating. On top of being one of my hands-down Must Haves for 2014, it is by far one of the BEST detangling products I have ever used, ever. Spray it throughout the hair and watch Infusium 23 Pro Vitamin B-5 Formula Leave-In Treatment go to work! It can be used as a part of a pre-shampoo treatment (my favorite use), as a mid-week detangler, or as a liquid, water-based leave-in.

As far as color, it is milky white. The consistency is pretty much that of water. Not watery or watered down, but wet like water. The difference? If you pour some in your hand, you can feel the slip immediately. The fragrance is mild and slightly floral with fresh undertones (if that at all makes sense...lol). Overall, the Infusium 23 Pro Vitamin B-5 Formula Leave-In Treatment aka Infusium 23 Repair & Renew Leave-In Treatment (why can't they just use the same name....seriously) delivers on every count.

Drawbacks: The major drawback is the confusion between names and packaging. Seems like they'd just streamline everything to make it easier for consumers. The one I have is recommended for professional use, but the Infusium 23 Repair & Renew on drugstore shelves obviously is for the general consumer-- even though the ingredients are the same. Beyond that, the squeeze-nozzle top is a bit awkward but a spray bottle provides a quick and simple workaround. But all in all, neither are deal breakers.

Bonuses: Where do I begin? 33.8oz of product for under $10. Superb detangling ability -- that can without a doubt rival the best detanglers out there (I say that with a straight face). Multi-use, great for all textures. The silicone it contains is water soluble (to assuage the concerns of CG folks). And lastly, it makes a great layer of protection for blowouts and heat styling -- thanks to the amodimethicone and cetrimonium chloride.

Bottom Line: A must have, hands down. If your hair feels out of whack and you need more than water to rehydrate it, this is a great product to do just that and more. If you spend too much money on detanglers, this product is also for you!

Overall Product Rating: 5 stars...hands down!

Best Practices: My favorite way to use the Infusium 23 product is as a pre-shampoo or midweek hydration treatment. Watch the treatment in action below!

Restoring Hydration to DRY, FRIZZY & TANGLED Natural and Transitioning Hair

May 20, 2014, 11:51 am

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Hair feeling wonky and out of sorts? Dry frizziness (and not the cute kind) that won't quit? Does it seem like your products aren't working, and spritzing your hair with water and other concoctions just ain't cutting it? At this point in the game, most natural hair blogs and vlogs are going to tell you that you probably need to clarify your hair with an SLS-containing shampoo, apple cider vinegar, bentonite clay, baking soda, and prayer. And then, theyre going to tell you to deep condition.

But what if you've done that, and your hair is still full of drama?

That's the exact predicament I was in. I shampooed, deep conditioned, prayed, moisturized, sealed, spritzed, and prayed some more -- and my hair still looked and felt a mess. That's when I put my thinking cap on. It didn't take long for me to have my lightbulb moment --  moisture and hydration are essential to healthy, well-managed hair. That goes for natural, relaxed, transitioning, straight, kinky, curly, coily, short, long, and awkward length hair.

You probably know how to moisturize your hair -- but are you properly hydrating it?

The difference between moisture and hydration
Moisturizing the hair involves the use of emollients like butters and oils to lock water content into the hair. That's right -- we've been looking at moisture all wrong. Hydrating the hair involves the use of humectants, proteins, amino acids, and certain vitamins to aid in the absorption and binding of  water to the hair. Does this mean throw out all your products and start over? Absolutely not. Just look at them a little differently from now on!

This also doesn't mean go around slathering on butters and oils to hydrate the hair -- because oils and butters are occlusive (they lock water in and out), any true hydration issues will be masked by how soft and smooth your hair feels. In order to correct hydration issues with the hair, a water-based product with Panthenol, amino acids, and proteins are great. You can find this combination in any number of deep conditioners, or check out my powerhouse hydrating combination below:

My rehydration process
This process can be done as a pre-shampoo treatment, after shampoo conditioning, or even as a mid-week hydration restoring treatment.

To thoroughly detangle and begin the re-hydration process, I use Infusium 23 Pro-Vtamin B5 Formula Leave-In Treatment, also known as Infusium 23 Repair & Renew Leave-In Treatment. Enriched with conditioning agents and amino acids, the Infusium 23 is lightweight and liquidy with tons of slip. It instantly absorbs into the hair to help restore hydration, strength, smoothness, and shine. For the full review of the Infusium 23 Leave-In Treatment, click here.

For additional strength, hydration, conditioning, and moisture, I follow the Infusium 23 up with One n' Only Argan Oil Restorative Mask. Packed full of conditioning agents, protein, oils, and butters, this mask has reconstructive, rehydrating, strengthening, and softening properties. When combined with the Infusium 23, I've got a moisturizing and strengthening powerhouse! You can feel free to substitute any deep conditioner for the Argan Oil Restorative Mask. Another favorite of mine is the Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask. Click here to read the One n' Only Argan Oil Restorative Mask review.

Check out my demo below for how I restore hydration and strength to my dry, frizzy, and tangled natural hair:

****Let me know if you find the demo videos helpful! I'm trying to incorporate them into my reviews more!****

Miss Jessie's Pillow Soft Curls Review

May 28, 2014, 3:03 pm

≫ Next: How to Build a Regimen for Transitioning Hair

≪ Previous: Restoring Hydration to DRY, FRIZZY & TANGLED Natural and Transitioning Hair

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MYSTERY PRODUCT REVEALED!!!!!

A few days ago on Instagram I RAVED about a product that gave me soft, voluminous, bouncy, shiny, and defined curls on day 1 -- and that product has now been revealed! 

It's Miss Jessie's Pillow Soft Curls!

My experience with Pillow Soft Curls was a great one. My curls were big, bouncy, defined, soft, shiny, and moisturized on day 1 -- with no crunch, gooky buildup, or tacky feeling. A total win in my book! For me, Pillow Soft Curls is the perfect summer wash and go product.

Check out my full video review below:

About my wash and go in this video:

• Pre-Poo Treatment: Infusium 23 Pro-Vitamin B5 Formula Leave-In and SprinklewithGrace Salted Caramel Deep Conditioning Shea Butter Hair Mask
• Cleanse and Deep Condition: SprinklewithGrace Coconut Vinegar Shampoo Bar and Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask
• Leave-In and Style: Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Leave-In Conditioner, Miss Jessie's Pillow Soft Curls
• Finishing Products: Curls Blueberry Bliss Curl Control Paste (edges), Deepthi Organics Verdana Shine & Control Hair Oil (ends)

Ingredient List:
Water (Aqua), Emulsifying Wax NF, Glycerin, Amodimethicone, Behentrimonium Chloride, Methyl Gluceth-20, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Blue 1 (CI 42090), Fragrance (Parfum), Limonene, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil, Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Citric Acid, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Silk Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP Crosspolymer, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Amyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Hydroxycitronellal, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Extract, Equisetum Arvense Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Agave Americana Leaf Extract

Ingredient Breakdown (top 5 after water):

• Emulsifying Wax NF: A vegetable based emulsifying wax from naturally occurring fats and esters used to create a bond between water and oil for products which require their binding together. Makes a fluid cream, and lotion without the separation, and complements the finished products end texture. NF stands for "National Formulary".
• Glycerin: Generally vegetable-based humectant that absorbs and retains moisture from the air.
• Amodimethicone: Amodimethicone: Silicone-based hair conditioning polymer that becomes water soluble (yes, a water soluble cone!) when accompanied by cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12. In this case, amodimethicone is not water soluble.
• Behentrimonium Chloride: Quaternary ammonium compound and close cousin of cetrimonium chloride. Also penetrates the hair, conditions, and acts as an anti-static and anti-microbial agent.
• Methyl Gluceth-20: water soluble emollient and humectant produced from Glucose and Methyl Alcohol and originally derived from corn sugar and corn starch. It is versatile, gentle, and known to impart smoothness to hair and skin.

What do you think of Miss Jessie's Pillow Soft Curls? Yea or nay?

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How to Build a Regimen for Transitioning Hair

June 1, 2014, 9:43 am

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                                      Transitioner throwback! I was feeling my big-ish hair!

Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

When it comes to transitioning, there are three questions I am asked most frequently:

1. How do I transition to natural hair?
2. What hair styles can I do?
3. Is there a regimen I can follow?

Right now, we're going to tackle question number 3. For answers to 1 and 2, click the questions to find those answers!

Although I never developed a rock-solid regimen during my transition, I did have some general ideas around how frequently to do certain things based upon maintaining the health of my new natural hair, and salvaging what was left of my stringy heat damage. Here's an overall guide to regimen building, stemming from how I handled things during my 21 month transition to natural hair:

Note: These are merely suggestions based upon my transitioning experience. These suggestions are meant to help new transitioners develop a system for managing new growth alongside older relaxed or heat damaged hair. This is by no means gospel, or a strict set of guidelines. Feel free to add, remove, move around, or completely ignore some of the suggestions -- every head of hair is different, and will respond differently!

Pre-Poo Treatments, Detangling, and Cleansing
As a transitioner, I found that pre-pooing, detangling, and washing my hair on a weekly basis was optimal in terms of managing breakage, tangling, and giving my hair and scalp a clean slate. Although overmanipulation is the enemy of transitioning hair, going too long between washes is an even more egregious offense. Transitioning hair is more prone to tangling and knotting, because the ends of the hair that are relaxed or heat damaged tend to have rough or raised cuticles and get caught in one another. To help protect strands, a pre-poo treatment is highly recommended before washing. A hydrating treatment with virgin unrefined coconut oil, Infusium 23 Renew and Repair Leave-In Treatment, or a conditioner of your choice left on the hair for at least 30 minutes before cleansing will help strands glide past each other in the detangling process. Even if you choose not to wash your hair weekly, detangling it at least once a week will help prevent unnecessary knotting and tangles while sufficiently hydrating your hair along the line of demarcation to prevent breakage. Infusium 23 Repair and Renew, Kinky Cury Knot Today, Lawrence Ray Concepts Shake & Go, and Soultanicals Mango Dip Detangling Slip are all great pre-shampoo and midweek detanglers.

Deep Conditioning
Deep conditioning absolutely vital in terms of hydration, moisture retention, breakage prevention, and length retention. No wash day should pass without a deep conditioning session. Even if it can only last the duration of your shower, that is better than skipping entirely. Hair that is properly and regularly deep conditioned is softer, shinier, smoother, retains moisture better, and is less prone to breakage. Protein or strengthening treatments are only necessary on a once every 1-3 month basis, depending on the health of your hair. Click here for some great deep conditioners for transitioning hair.

Moisture, Sealing, and Styling
Hydrating and sealing in moisture before styling are also integral to preventing breakage along the line of demarcation. After pre-pooing, cleansing, and deep conditioning, layering a leave-in conditioner and a creamy moisturizer onto the hair will help ensure maximum hydration and improve elasticity in the hair. Click here for some of my favorite moisturizers for transitioning hair. If your hair can handle additional oil or butter on top for sealing, you can definitely do so. I recommend jojoba, argan oil (blends, pure can be quite expensive), and apricot oils for sealing transitioning hair, as the are the lightest.



Nighttime Routine and Refreshing
How often you rehydrate and seal moisture into your hair is totally dependent upon how you style it. If you keep your hair in a bun or updo for most of the week, you can afford to add moisture and seal your hair as many times as you wish, because water or water-based products will not have any impact on the outcome of your style. If you prefer texture blending styles like braidouts, twist and curls, or bantu knot-outs, refreshing and nighttime maintenance gets a little tricky. For the duration of your texture blending style, adding any products with water signals instant demise. If you can work enough moisture into your hair prior to styling (prepoo, cowash or sulfate-free shampoo, deep condition, hydrate and seal in moisture, air drying hair), you will be able to successfully avoid adding more product for the duration of your style. However if you must, I suggest using as little as you can get away with -- rubbing that infamous "dime size" amount in your hands, and scrunching it delicately into the areas that need it the most. Or if you're feeling fancy, the Q-Redew is a great way to rehydrate and refresh the hair without ruining transitioning styles.

As far as nighttime routines go, things get even stickier. The key here is to accept that in some way, shape, or form, your day 2 style will not look exactly like day 1. Whenever I rocked buns (a staple for me in the first year of transitioning, I kept my nighttime routine simple by adding a little water-based moisturizer and keeping my hair stretched with a few chunky, loose braids or by banding. But if you're looking to preserve a braidout or twist and curl, a little more ingenuity will be required. I never, ever, EVER advocate that transitioners pineapple, because it will stretch your braided, twisted, or bantu-knotted hair back straight. You can re-curl, twist, braid, or knot the hair for bedtime if you wish, but I personally find that to be a little too much on the manipulation front. As a transitioner, when I slept on braidouts or bantu knot outs, I pushed my hair back, and covered it with a satin scarf, and left the ends out while I slept on a satin pillowcase. Yes, some strands will fall flat, but with a little fluffing or a bobby pin here and there, the style comes back to life the next day.

Trimming
There is not set schedule for trimming transitioning hair, or even how much to trim. You can trim monthly, every 4 months, or every 6 months depending upon the health of your hair. But to give you a general idea of frequency, barring any major incidences of breakage or hair fall that would suggest a more immediate need, trimming every 3-4 months is sufficient. Depending on the overall health of your ends and the growth rate of your hair, trimming anywhere from 1/4 of an inch to an inch of hair should do the job. Of course, if you want to accelerate your transition, trim more. To stretch it out, trim less. For more general trimming guidelines and tips for transitioners, click here.

A note about protective styling:
Many ladies turn to protective styling as a means of length retention and busting over length retention plateaus. There is nothing wrong with wanting to tuck your hair away from time to time, for convenience and length retention reasons. But doing it excessively and repetitively can lead to scalp trauma, breakage, and traction alopecia among other things. I do encourage all transitioning ladies to spend some time learning and working with your hair. Loving, learning, and understanding your hair throughout the transitioning process makes embracing the natural hair journey and eventual chop that much easier. 

Happy transitioning! Be sure to visit "All Things Transitioning" on my blog for more information on the journey!

How to Prepare for the Big Chop

June 1, 2014, 6:12 pm

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≪ Previous: How to Build a Regimen for Transitioning Hair

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                                                                 Heat damage, be gone!

That awkward moment when you forgot you wrote an article nearly two months ago, and it's been chilling in "drafts" waiting to be published......Yeah, this is one of those. 

The second my stylist took a hack at my heat damage and  I saw 4+ inches hit the floor, I panicked. I had second, third, fourth, fifth, and sixth thoughts about what I was doing. I knew going in that when I emerged from the chair, my hair would be considerably shorter than it had ever been. I was terribly self-conscious because I had only chopped all my hair off once, and it was straight, blonde, and fly. This, this chop thing was totally different. Even though I had 21 months of growth, my hair was extremely curly and shrunken thanks to the multiple textures of my mane. But nearly 3 months later, I look back and wonder why I was so worried. Big chopping, although nearly 2 years into my transtition, was the best decision I had ever made for my hair.

In the world of natural hair, there are two ways to go about taking your mane from a damaged, and sometimes unhealthy mess to a head full of gorgeous kinks, coils, curls, and waves. One method is transitioning for a given amount of time, and then chopping your ends whenever you feel comfortable. The other, more gutsy method is to big chop. Big chopping involves straight up cutting all your hair off and starting from scratch. It can be exhilarating, fun, edgy....and a total nightmare.

In a culture where beautiful hair is the currency, it can be absolutely difficult to feel attractive after getting rid of something you've had your whole life -- long hair. And even if prior to chopping your hair didn't go past your chin, you still had more then than you have post chop. I won't pretend to know the feeling of waking up the morning after BC-ing, and realizing that there is no more than an inch of hair atop my head. I transitioned for 21 months to avoid that very feeling. But because I chopped before my goal length, I know exactly what it feels like to have less hair than you've ever had, and to have to actively work at loving your hair and feeling beautiful.

Check the rest of this article at NaturallyCurly.com!

6 Causes of Sore Scalp in Natural Hair

June 2, 2014, 10:12 am

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If you're anything like me, growing up you sat between your mom or grandma's legs, head resting on her knee while you winced and whimpered as she combed, brushed, styled, braided, or pressed your hair. "Tenderheaded" was your middle name as a child, and as an adult, you get a little teary-eyed at the thought of sitting through braids and other styles.

Even though my years of tenderheaded wincing and ponytails are over, I still get the occasional sore scalp from time to time. Most of the time, I can attribute it to new growth spurts (awkward, but I know for my hair, that's what's happening -- this goes all the way back to my middle and high school days). Usually, with a little massage (with coconut, olive, jojoba, or any other type of oil) the soreness goes away within a few hours. But if a scalp massage isn't solving your sore problems, check out these other 6 culprits that may be to blame:

Keep reading at NaturallyCurly.com!

Give It a Break Girl, You're Detangling too Much!

June 2, 2014, 10:17 am

≫ Next: Tips for Handling Natural Hair with Two or More Textures

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Detangling.

For many of us, it might as well be a four letter word. Some of us avoid it until our hair is on the brink of disaster, while others may do some form of it a few times a week or even daily. We all know the dangers of pushing detangling sessions too far back -- from breakage and matting to cutting out clumps of knots. But what about detangling too frequently? Is there a such thing as doing too much detangling?

There's an old adage that says, too much of anything is bad for you. By and large, that tends to be true. Detangling is great for releasing shed hairs, making the removal of buildup easier, and not to mention, it is the cornerstone of every fabulous natural hair style. But when done too often, detangling can lead to the following:

To learn about the dangers of too much detangling, read on over at NaturallyCurly.com!

Tips for Handling Natural Hair with Two or More Textures

June 8, 2014, 11:09 pm

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Day 2 wash and go hair. Used my nighttime routine method to combat mushroom hair syndrome! Keep reading for more...

Article also available on Black Girl with Long Hair!

Typically, when I talk about managing multiple textures, I'm referring to transitioning and the delicate dance between old, damaged hair and new growth. This time around, I'm talking about all natural hair-- although some transitioners could surely stand to benefit. One of the limitations to the texture typing system (2a - 4c) is that it fails to take into account naturals that are challenged with managing multiple textures. It's really difficult to take a one size fits all approach to haircare, when on the same head you can have hair that ranges from 2c to 4b -- and none of it is damaged!

Although texture typing can be useful in some instances, I'm hesitant to label myself because my textures are personally all over the place. The right side of my hair tends to curl,whereas the left side is more inclined to wave. The back half of my hair has a looser texture and less shrinkage (around 30%), while the front half shrinks at least 50 - 60%. In addition, the front/center has a tighter wave, and the crown is kinky and frizzy. If I had to label it, I'd say my hair is a mix of 3a,3b,3c, and 4a. I say all this to say, having several different textures on one head of hair is completely normal (although the picture-perfect selfies on Instagram would lead you to believe otherwise).

So how do you manage multiple textures on one head? It can get a little frustrating, but with some trial and error, and a little ingenuity, you will be able to work with what you've got and make the most of every style.

On Wash Day

When it comes to managing multiple textures on wash day, the same general information holds true. Handle with care. Cleanse gently, and deep condition often. For hair that is more coily and kinky than loosely curled, extra, extra gentle care is required. Each bend, whether it be zig-zag or spiral, is a structural weak point within the hair. So when detangling and working cleansers and conditioners through, take a little more time and use a little less force on those more tightly wound sections. Also, put your deep conditioner on those areas first, so they can remain on the hair the longest. The extra few minutes of deep conditioning will help soften, hydrate, and keep the hair pliable -- which sets you up for great styling.

Styling

Hair pinned back to dry...

When it comes to managing multiple textures, finding styles that work all the way around can be a challenge. Texture blending styles like satin strip braidouts,and bantu knot outs can definitely be useful. but you shouldn't feel pressured to rely on those styles if you like to wear wash and go's. If you opt for a texture-blending style like those mentioned above, make sure your hair is 100% dry before take-down. To get more stretch from twist-outs, use Naptural85's method and stretch them across your head to dry. If you're like me and really just don't have it in you to set up styles, the wash and go works perfectly fine with multi-textured hair. If I just wash, add product and go, my hair will shrink into a mushrooom-esque shape while it dries, because of my previously mentioned multi-textured struggles.So typically, for the first day or half day of my wash and go, I will wear the front/center sections pinned back to help stretch the roots and make that mushroom shape go away.

Other helpful styles and tools for multiple textures:

• banding
• large loose twists or braids
• Curlformers
• straw set
• blowout

To help get a handle on uneven shrinkage, diffusing is also really helpful. Just be mindful of scrunching the diffuser full of hair up toward the scalp, which facilitates increased shrinkage. Instead, lay the diffuser flat against sections of hair, moving it around until the hair is dry to your preferred amount.

Nighttime Preservation

Banding + Pineappling

Nighttime routines are where things get a little tricky for managing multiple textures. Pineappling can result in uneven stretching, bonnets equal uneven smooshing, and sometimes satin pillowcase only is not an option. This is where creativity and really knowing your hair comes in handy. I know that if I scarf pineapple only, the back half of my hair will stretch more (thanks to where the knot is tied) while the front draws up into itself. This is problematic for me, because my mornings will inevitably result in even more uneven hair. To help combat this, some nights I sleep with the front/center of my hair banded, and the rest scarf pineappled. This method works great to help more shrinkage-prone areas of the hair "catch up" with the looser hair. For more on this approach, see my Nighttime Routine video. Preserve multiple texture blending styles by following the regular scarf pineapple, or tying the scarf over the head old-fashion styled.

Lastly, one of the biggest lessons I learned about managing multiple textures is to do as much as you can in the way of refreshing and moisturizing during your nighttime routine. Because the hair is going straight into preservation mode (via scarf, banding, etc.), there is less of a chance or opportunity for uneven shrinkage to occur. And in the morning, when you shake and fluff, you will have to add little to no product to your hair to get it right.

What are some tips and tricks you've picked up along the way to help manage your multiple textures of hair?